Where France goes skiing

Hidden Gems : SKIERS HEADING to France almost invariably think first of the Alps and the big-name resorts, perhaps Chamonix, …

Hidden Gems: SKIERS HEADING to France almost invariably think first of the Alps and the big-name resorts, perhaps Chamonix, Courchevel or Megève. But the French themselves, and the Spanish as well, are as likely to think of the Pyrenees, which form a magnificent natural border between the two countries.

For both nationalities skiing is a family entertainment, so they tend to gravitate towards where it’s more relaxed and cheaper – and where the snow is every bit as good.

You’ll find Superbagnères perched above the spa town of Luchon, at a height of 1,860m, right in the middle of the Pyrenees, two hours south of Toulouse.

Low-cost airlines fly into Tarbes-Lourdes-Pyrénées and Pau Pyrénées airports, both less than 90 minutes away. But it seems, to coin a phrase, like another planet.

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The resort is dominated by the enormous Grand Hotel de Superbagnères, which has changed owners many times over the years, is more than a little faded and bears a striking resemblance to the haunted hotel in Stanley Kubrick's movie The Shining.

Next door is a little branch of École du Ski Français, where it’s a joy to watch toddlers learning to balance without ski sticks. There are one or two bars, a coffee shop and a few apartments – and after that it’s all about the snow.

For aficionados, Superbagnères has 30km of pistes in three sectors: Téchous, Lac and Céciré. Of the 24 pistes, three are green, nine are blue, six are red and six are black. And there are no fewer than 133 snow cannons to manufacture the white stuff in case nature doesn’t.

Most of the apres-ski is down in Luchon. The gondola lift makes the journey in eight minutes – and has the biggest vertical drop in the Pyrenees, 1,200m straight down.

luchon.com

Do you know of a hidden gem? E-mail us at go@irishtimes.com